February Newsletter 2006

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Hi,

THIS MONTH LET'S TALK ABOUT CHEESE, WONDERFUL ITALIAN CHEESE, GOOD TO EAT AND GOOD WITH WHICH TO COOK:

In its simplest form, cheese is the curd of milk. This curd is compressed into a compact mass and the cheese thus produced is dependent on the way the curd is treated thereafter. In some types of cheese, the curd, after various operations, is allowed to stand for a certain length of time, shaped into a loaf and then put away to cure for a certain period, ranging from a few weeks to one or two years and sometimes longer...the longer it cures, the sharper it becomes.

In other types of cheese molds are inoculated, so to speak, to give them characteristic flavor and properties. Others, again, are treated with salt and brine which prevents mold and allows the cheese to cure from the outside to the center, acquiring in the process its own distinctive flavor.

Since cheese is a concentrated form of milk, it has all the food value of milk in a concentrated form. Hence it, as economical protein food, is most healthful because of its Vitamins A and D content and it also supplies an essential mineral...calcium. It is a concentrated source of energy and, above all, it is a palatable food which lends itself to a great variety of uses.

I might add that cheese, contrary to a fallacious belief, is a most digestible food, it digests slowly, but very completely.

Italy's contribution to the world in the field of cheese is most important, both from the point of view of output as well as of distinctiveness of types and fine quality. Confining ourselves for the moment to the cheeses of Italian production I will briefly mention the following in its definitions and descriptions:

GORGONZOLA - Made from rich pure cows' milk. Ripened by a natural process in mountain caves, it is creamy, mild, has a piquant taste and is highly nourishing. The king of table cheeses it is insuperable for salad dressing, celery stuffing and more.

REGGIANO (Parmesan) - Made from pure cows' milk, aged for two years and more. No other cheese can equal its seasoning properties on spaghetti, ravioli, vegetable soups and dishes au gratin. Buy it by the piece and grate it yourself as needed. You will note the vast difference in taste and aroma as compared with grated cheese sold in packages.

PROVOLONE - Made with pure rich cows' milk, with the texture of Swiss cheese but with a delightful, mild piquant taste of its own. A Provlone sandwich, on white or rye bread will be a revelation to you.

GENUINE ROMANO PECORINO - This cheese is made from pure rich sheeps' milk. It is aged for one year and more and has a marked but pleasant sharp taste. If you prefer a sharp flavor, this is the type of cheese you should use on your spaghetti and other pastas.

CACIO REALE (Royal Cheese) - A natural, rich creamy cheese. A delightful table cheese to be served with green salads. A real treat as a snack at bridge, cocktail or after theater parties. Try a Cacio Reale rarebit.

DOLCE VERDE (Sweet Green Cheese) -A creamy blue vein cheese. Not fermented, possessing a mild elusive flavor. If you want soft rich cheese with a rare tang. It is not pasteurized.

RECIPES USING SOME OF THE CHEESES MENTIONED ABOVE:

RISOTTO MILANESE STYLE (Risotto alla milanese) - Careful...this is an old recipe. 1-1/4lbs of risotto is a lot of risotto!

1-1/4 lbs risotto type rice
1/2 cup dried mushrooms
2 qt. chicken broth or stock
1 sm. box saffron
1/4 lb butter
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 onion, finely chopped

Sauté onion in butter over low flame. Soak mushrooms in lukewarm water, wash. Dissolve the saffron in a little warm broth. When onions begin to turn brown, add mushrooms. Let them cook a bit longer, then add the rice slowly, stirring it until it has absorbed all the butter. Add broth or stock half a cup at a time to keep the rice moist.

Stir frequently, and by the time the rice is cooked (30-35 minutes) all the broth should have been used and absorbed. Add the dissolved saffron to the rice. Add salt as desired to taste and, before serving, sprinkle with a good handful of freshly grated REGGIANO/Parmesan cheese.

According to taste, a tumblerful of Marsala wine or sherry or perhaps some other white wine, could be added to the rice while cooking.

PARMESAN TOAST (Pane tostato al Parmigiano) - Serves 1 or 2, depending....

1 cup milk
3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan
1 Tbs. butter
2 egg yolks, slightly beaten
1 Tbs. flour
2 whites of eggs stiffly beaten
pinch of salt
few grains pepper

Make white sauce of milk, butter, flour, salt and pepper. Add parmesan cheese and, as soon as same melts, add yolks of eggs. When mixture thickens, add whites of eggs. Pour over toast and serve.

SABAYON (Zabaione or Zabaglione)

This doesn't call for cheese but...man! Do I love it!

To the yolks of three eggs add 4 Tbs. granulated sugar and beat until lemon colored. Then, add 6 Tbs. Marsala wine or sherry. To add strength you may wish to add one Tbs. rum.

Put in a dash of vanilla, mix well in pan.

Put the pan in a larger one in which water is boiling rapidly and stir continuously. As soon as the mixture begins to swell or froth, remove and serve immediately.

Source - A 56 year old complimentary handout from Locatelli, Inc.

Note: The Mauviel Bain Marie or double boiler, 1.5qts on MyChefsFavorites.com is perfect for making this recipe as is the Zabaglione pan as such.

Have fun cooking, I do!

I would also like to take this opportunity to tell you about a new web site I have launched dedicated to the Mandoline Slicer. The Mandoline is a compact, hand-operated slicing and cutting machine. It is used to cut fruits and vegetables uniformly, useful for rapidly producing multitudes of thin slices and julienne strips.

If you have never used a Mandoline and need instruction, here is your chance to see a 11 minute video adequate to make you an expert!

Sincerely,
Don Shipman,
MyChefsFavorites.com